PRINT: Rock Climb Chaplin, Joshua Tree National Park

Chaplin

5.8 R, Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m),

Avg: 1 from 4 votes
FA: Todd & Donette Swain
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Jellystone > Jellystone Southwest…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Start about six feet right of Cho on the short, steep wall that is on the left side of the alcove.

Face climb up along a thin vertical seam and some huecos to the top. This is the blue line on the accompanying photo.

This route gets afternoon shade.

Location

Start about six feet right of Cho on the short, steep wall that is on the left side of the alcove.

Protection

Tiny TCUs provide some protection.

Large cams and an anchor rope if you wish to set up a TR.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left side of the alcove on the south face of Jellystone.

Short, steep cracks on left side of alcove on south face of Jellystone.