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Routes in Old Man Spire
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Dilley's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northwest Ridge Route (old woman) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Old Man - Old Woman Tyrolean Traverse A0 |
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Prize, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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West Dihedral (Old Woman) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 260 ft (79 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Chaves and Orton |
| Page Views: | 4,114 total · 37/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Apr 3, 2016 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
A shallow-intrusive rhyodacite pinnacle.
This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.
First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60').
The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.
This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.
First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60').
The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.
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