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Routes in Old Man Spire

Prize, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 260 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chaves and Orton
Page Views: 611 total, 30/month
Shared By: hotlum on Apr 3, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.
First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60').
The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.

Location

Obvious arête on the downhill side of the spire.

Protection

Bolts and bolted belays. Bring 12 quickdraws and a few slings plus anchor material. The belays have chains and are comfortable.

Photos

Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11c
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11c
Best route in Orygun? Sustained pitches, no giveaway but it's all there! Jul 31, 2016