Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in Old Man Spire
|Prize, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Sport, 260 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Chaves and Orton|
|Page Views:||611 total, 30/month|
|Shared By:||hotlum on Apr 3, 2016|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThis route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.
First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60').
The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.