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Routes in Old Man Spire

Prize, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 260 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chaves and Orton
Page Views: 689 total · 29/month
Shared By: hotlum on Apr 3, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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This route has good rock, great moves, and awesome exposure. It ascends the slightly overhanging southeast arête for 4 pitches.
First pitch is 5.10c to a large ledge (50'). The second pitch is pumpy 5.11b to a nice belay ledge(60'). The third pitch is the crux, with a technical 5.11b/c move right after the first bolt and will continue with sustained 5.10- just on the right side of the arête (90'). The fourth and final pitch, 5.11b, is wildly exposed until the final anchor just below the summit (60').
The route can be rappelled with two ropes, but the belay ledge at the top of the third pitch HAS snagged ropes before. The standard descent off the Spire is from the chains on the north side of the spire with double ropes (1 rappel). Once on terra firma descend the loose gully back around to the base of the climb.


Obvious arête on the downhill side of the spire.


Bolts and bolted belays. Bring 12 quickdraws and a few slings plus anchor material. The belays have chains and are comfortable.


Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Best route in Orygun? Sustained pitches, no giveaway but it's all there! Jul 31, 2016
Ted Wogan
Ashland, OR
Ted Wogan   Ashland, OR
I went to climb this route and the signs on the approach said that the area was closed due to damage related to the fires last summer. How long until this clears up? This route looks like a lot of fun and I would really like to try it. Mar 5, 2018
Bend, Oregon
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
Contact the umpqua national forest. The complex fire left a huge mess and a lot of the wild and scenic corridor got burned up. If the access road to the east is affected then you can walk the NUT from the west (hiking easbound) from where hwy138 crosses the North Umpqua at mp50.
Good luck Mar 6, 2018
Ted Wogan
Ashland, OR
Ted Wogan   Ashland, OR
Hotlum unfortunatally the areal is closed from that side as well. I contacted to national forest and they are going to try to clean it up by March 31st. They said to call before you go to make sure. There number is 541-957-3200. Mar 6, 2018

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