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Routes in Sheep Skull Crags

Black Glass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dust to Dust T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Intestinal Flu T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pneumonia T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Rock, Paper, Sugar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Joe Herbst and others
Page Views: 116 total, 6/month
Shared By: Flavaflav on Apr 1, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Climbed half way up this line and bailed on a gear anchor. The point up to which I stopped was absolutely awesome. Double cracks, stemming, finger/hand jamming. Reasonable rock. Just below the stack of tat I decided it looked too loose and not protectable. Went back and rappelled the line, and I was happy I stopped when I did. The rest of the climb consists of one side hard varnish, one side complete garbage sugar stone. Pretty wild stemming for what is supposed to be 5.8 and jamming up an OW. Not many good placements for the last 60-80 ft of this climb, generally behind hollow blocks or half-sugary cracks.

To be clear, the R rating is for the second half of this climb.

Location

Look for shallow chimney/double cracks going up to wider chimney.

Protection

Up to half way point, doubles to 3". If you wanted to be a doll and fix a couple small, medium sized hexes to rap off of, or continue up to the sugary thread(not too inspiring, also would probably need a 70m to rap off)

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