Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches|
|FA:||Jonny Woodward, John Sherman, 5/88|
|Page Views:||1,092 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Prince on Mar 28, 2016|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
P1-3: The dihardral seems the most natural start. (honestly, the curx of that route felt just about as hard as anything on this). These pitches can also be done in 2 as described here on MP. The center route can also be climbed. At any rate, reach a bolted anchor in a notch in the pinnacle itself.
P4: 5.10c tad spicy. Your bolt of the next pitch can be seen up and left from the belay. Instead of traversing straight left to continue to the top of Slab Happy Pinnacle, climb to the top of a little pillar and up underneath a roof. Nest some gear. Smaller is better where the roof/flake is a bit more solid. A finger size piece can also be had out left. Once satisfied, make some insecure moves to get your feet up on a dike feature where you can then clip the bolt. Romp up the sweet flake and belay at a small stance where we found some tat, right before the face pitch starts.
P5: 11A. Here goes... Thing is truly amazing. I found aggressive edging shoes to really help on this pitch. It's that orange rock so lots of face features. Mostly pulling on thin crimps, not much pure slab at all (thank gawed, right). A piece or two for off the belay and then it's 6 bolts in roughly 40 meters. Bolts are original but seem solid. They do an ok job of protecting the hardest bits. Clip the 7th bolt once you gain the ledge system and traverse left to set up a gear belay in the corner.
It's best to ignore the "temporary belays" that Reid shows. Possibly that was for 50m ropes?
P6: 11b. The sweet corner. This thing is obvious from manure pile. It's a little licheny but a lot of fun. Lieback up the leaning corner until it turns into a roof. Crux is tips underclinging and is over pretty quickly, but it packs a pump. Gain some jugs on the lip of the roof and then climb up to a stance and gear belay.
p7: 11b tad spicy. This pitch is cool but a pian in the ass. Nest in some gear off the belay and bust a tough face move up and over the little roof. Easier climbing leads up to a fixed anchor of sorts. Back it up and clip it. Climb back down and then bust a little move out right to gain a ledge/ramp. Continue traversing right on steep flakes until a nice stance before it gets easy.
My 2nd climbed up to the fixed anchor and put himself on a lower out, but then climbed free with me still belaying/feeding out slack. He climbed back down from the fixed anchor, made the move out right and then pulled the bight of rope. Worked ok. The "pro for follower" as Reid notes would theoretically work but it seemed way too out of reach for me to get some in there, so we went with this lower out method. (should honestly put in a fkn bolt here if anywhere, dumb)
P8: Easy right and up to gain the east ledges. In all honesty, some route finding issues could be had towards the top. After getting to the top of the initial section (crazy, giant, detached flake. but don't need to touch it), we headed straight up, up a blank looking corner where jugs and some gear appeared. Then it's over. Looks like you could continue going right as well.
Descend East Ledges