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Routes in Getu Valley

Blue Spirit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Business in China S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dos Forasteros en la Selva S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dunman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jiu (Nine) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ki Di Buzz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Piscineta Cina S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nudel Power S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
RimRim (P1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
king of guano S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: CMDI team
Page Views: 242 total, 12/month
Shared By: szheng on Mar 28, 2016
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Adventure multipitch on the CMDI wall! This route attracted us as being the most moderate sport multipitch at Getu.

WARNING: when Ryan and I attempted to climb the route in August '15 we got shut down at the 4th pitch, rated only 5a (or about 5.9). I was solid leading 5.11 at the time, but this pitch felt much more difficult and in the end we had to bail. Don't expect this to be a casual romp

Location

CMDI wall, left of Wood Cutter

Protection

bolts all the way!

Photos

David Wieder
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
David Wieder   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10a
Loved this route! The climbing is excellent and there is very little loose stuff for a climb this long that gets so little traffic - the first and last pitch aren't great. At the top of the route, walk to the actual summit, the view is out of this world. Watch your rope on the way down, maybe give yourself some extra time, with all the plants and features it could get caught on.

I think the OP was on the wrong route. I had no issues (led the whole thing) and thought the crux was actually the second pitch, probably at around 10a. Finding the route should be fairly obvious - there is a large dihedral near the right end of the crag. Blue spirit is to the left of the dihedral, the other route is right in it - you can easily see both bolt lines and, at/after the third belay, you can see the other route to your right.

Many of the belay stations (here, in the rest of Getu, some places in Yangshuo) have this crappy setup with with one bolt significantly above the other and no chains - so when rapping your only hanging on one bolt even if you go through both. And often only one bolt has a quick link. I left a couple of carabiners at belay stations on this route, you might want to bring quicklinks.

Do not try to approach the route from White Crag, there is no trail (despite there being one on the topo) and the bushwhacking sucks. Instead, take the road past Pusayan, turning left when there are intersections in the road. There is a trail up the drainage just past Pusayan - this trail is on the topo. Nov 10, 2016