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Classic Roof Problem

5.11+ PG13, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Telluride/Norwo… > Telluride Bould… > Society Turn

Description

This is commonly done as a toprope but is also a fun, short, lead climb. If you are standing at the bottom of the main wall/overhang, this climb starts at the base of Yara River Eliminate boulder problem and climbs up to the one and only bolt (20-25 feet up). Clip the bolt and climb through a few sets of overhangs to a pumpy traverse out right. Plug in some gear in the big, horizontal traverse, and make a bouldery move to pull the last lip. This climbs one of the biggest lines on the cliff, 50 feet, 5.11+.

Location

This is on the middle/right hand side of the main wall at Society Turn. Look for the one and only bolt (has some faded tat on it), along with the overhanging roofs. There are a few variations in terms of the boulder problems you could do leading up to the bolt. If top roping, you'll need to extend your anchor quite a bit.

Protection

1 bolt halfway up, a #2 for the horizontal above, a few other options along the way.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Patricio Vyhmeister
Norwood (Colorado)
5.11c
[Hide Comment] In the old guidebook, this climb is called “The Classic Roof Problem.” Should we just call it like that? I also did a straight finish after the horizontal crack that adds other little crux and goes at around 5.12a. Jan 24, 2020