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Golden Pagoda
5.13a/b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
FA: B. Scott
Colorado
> Ft Collins
> Poudre Canyon
> Grandpa's Bridge
> Riverside Zone
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include
Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
This is a stunning line up the steepest, central section of the Pagoda Tower. Rock quality, position, and movement give this route all the stars you need. Don't be surprised if you get a few honks and gawkers on this nearly roadside crag.
Start with 3 bolts of face climbing with a tricky move before the mantel onto the ledge. The first crux is right off the ledge with slopers, crimps, and compression to reach a slopey hole. After the slopey hole, continuous and pumpy underclings lead to a final, desperate stab to a cool, pinchy jug at the lip.
Clipping the 2nd bolt off the ledge can be tricky. Shorter climbers have rodeo-clipped this bolt off the ledge. It is best to climb
Power Pagoda first and set the draws on Golden Pagoda on your way down.
Location
This route is located on the Pagoda Tower. From the parking, walk along the river until you pass
La-Z-Boy. Turn uphill here, and follow the edge of a scree slope to the base of the route. A short 5th class downclimb leads to the belay ledge. If in doubt, get a belay down to the ledge.
Protection
8 bolts + 2-bolt anchor.
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