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Fuck Rumney

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
FA: Kristen Fiore, Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver (March 27, 2016)
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Bolton Area > Bone Mountain > Main Cliff > B. Middle Cliff Routes
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Description

A stellar pitch with meaty business. New beta may have softened the grade.

After clipping the first bolt work up unique schist scoops, pinches, and crimps past small gear until you reach a stance at the third bolt. Chalk up a half dozen times and catch your breath. From here it's obvious what you're shooting for but can you figure out how to get there? Get through the business and trend right to a crack with gear and secure holds. Continue around the left of a bulge to a two-bolt anchor. But wait, there's more! There is now an additional 20 ft. of climbing with an awesome one-move crux. Clip the anchors with a double length sling and trend up and left until you can clip the high bolt. Pull through and mantle to a second anchor shared with Maybe God's a Trad Climber.

If rappelling from the second anchor you NEED a 60 meter rope. Nothing shorter will reach.


A 60 meter rappel from the top anchors.

Location

30 feet to the right of Father's Day on the huge obvious arĂȘte. Look for a bolt 20 feet up.

Protection

A light rack and 4 quickdraws. A #3 is nice if shooting for the second anchor. Cruxes are well protected but it's a tricky onsight.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The line of Fuck Rumney.<br>
<br>
The Face of Family Picnic can be seen about 40 ft. to the left.
[Hide Photo] The line of Fuck Rumney. The Face of Family Picnic can be seen about 40 ft. to the left.
Kris equipping
[Hide Photo] Kris equipping
Found 'em!
[Hide Photo] Found 'em!
Searching for the holds on the new upper section.
[Hide Photo] Searching for the holds on the new upper section.
Kris on the FA of Fuck Rumney (5.11a).
[Hide Photo] Kris on the FA of Fuck Rumney (5.11a).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Conor Mark
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Classic, relentless, glue-ins, what more is there to say? Aug 20, 2016
Kristen Fiore
Burlington, VT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I climbed this again recently and it has stayed clean and beautiful. A really fun route with a super fun crux sequence. Sep 24, 2020