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Routes in B. Middle Cliff Routes

Boaty's Birthday S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boys Are Back at Bone, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Compound Fracture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Family Picnic S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Flippin the bird T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fuck Rumney T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golf Ball Sized Urethra T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mountaineers Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Schistorectomy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Traction Splint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Conor Mark, Dylan Oliver (March 27, 2016)
Page Views: 1,559 total · 67/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on Mar 27, 2016
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

A stellar pitch with meaty business. New beta may have softened the grade.

After clipping the first bolt work up unique schist scoops, pinches, and crimps past small gear until you reach a stance at the third bolt. Chalk up a half dozen times and catch your breath. From here it's obvious what you're shooting for but can you figure out how to get there? Get through the business and trend right to a crack with gear and secure holds. Continue around the left of a bulge to a two-bolt anchor. But wait, there's more! There is now an additional 20 ft. of climbing with an awesome one-move crux. Clip the anchors with a double length sling and trend up and left until you can clip the high bolt. Pull through and mantle to a second anchor shared with Maybe God's a Trad Climber.

If rappelling from the second anchor you NEED a 60 meter rope. Nothing shorter will reach.


Location

30 feet to the right of Father's Day on the huge obvious arĂȘte. Look for a bolt 20 feet up.

Protection

Small cams, tricams if you have them and 4 quickdraws. Maybe a medium cam or two. A #3 is nice if shooting for the second anchor. Cruxes are well protected but it's a tricky onsight.

Photos

Conor Mark
Asheville, NC
 
Conor Mark   Asheville, NC
 
Classic, relentless, glue-ins, what more is there to say? Aug 20, 2016

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