Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Wild Wall

Animal Territory T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big South Fort T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chanchors T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spider Rain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tennessee Triathalon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
What Madness T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches, Grade V
FA: Geoff Ris, Ryan Haeseley, Kevin Sigmund
Page Views: 496 total, 25/month
Shared By: geoffrey.ris on Mar 27, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Follow the dihedral past a couple of bulges for 70 feet using smeary stems and slopy face holds when appropriate. Make a burly move at the end of the dihedral through a small roof to gain a ledge. Rest up for the finish as you summon your TWall roof skills. Gun through the flake and stacked roofs to the finish. In the summer, the dihedral may be guarded by a squadron of large, white, paratrooping spiders. Warn your belayer of the incoming menace before you take mighty carabiner swings at the enemy while desperately clinging by a handjam and praying the disgusting little octopeds don't land directly on your face. Most exciting to do after monsoon level rain when friction is questionable.

You can set a hanging belay before mantling the final move to the top to avoid excess rope drag, or find something on top to redirect the rope. Belay from top off hemlock at cliff's edge.

Walk climber's right 50 ft to giant hemlock slung with rap ring to descend.

Note:
Originally climbed by Geoff Ris and Kevin Sigmund up to first small roof, then escaped out right to ledge. Climbed again by Geoff Ris and Ryan Haeseley under drier and less arachnophobic conditions to the top.

Location

From What Madness, just uphill in obvious dihedral at left of main wall.
From Animal Territory, head up to main wall and to the left.

Protection

Normal rack.
Extra 1's and 0.75's for the roofs.

Photos

Corona
  5.9
Corona  
  5.9
Excellent route on great rock. Would be a classic anywhere. Rapelled from large quite hemlock at top of cliff Apr 3, 2016