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Routes in Main Wall

Cloven Hoof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erockticka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fake it till you make it T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Heavens to Mergatroid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Other Side of the Tracks T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pastor of Muppets T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rolling Thunder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Straight Creek Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trophy Wife T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ultimatum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Rosy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 650 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Packard, Hanna, Shappart 2006
Page Views: 630 total, 30/month
Shared By: Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 27, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Other Side of the Tracks is well established as Spring Mountain’s most acclaimed and popular route. It features five long pitches of excellent face climbing with panoramic views of North Cascade peaks and valleys. At the route’s heart is the improbable and sustained headwall pitch (#3), surely one of Spring’s finest!

1. Up the broad slab to the 12’ vertical white headwall at 9+. Opinions differ on whether the crux is the grunty headwall or a tricky overlap midway up the slab. This pitch looks discouragingly mossy from below, but the holds are clean and more traffic will help.

2. Angle slightly left up the hanging slab at 5.7 to a 5.9 finish. A gorgeous pitch and immaculately clean, being above the forest canopy.

3. Tighten up your laces for the 5.10 enduro pitch! Right off the bat is a bulge that slows most suitors (tall ones less so), even with a bolt at their face. From there, work through endless crimps, smears, sidesteps and bolts - 14 and you won’t skip any. Quite a journey!

4. The angle backs off, but enjoyable face climbing continues toward the large fir tree with a 5.9 crux bulge. Several overlaps are protected by small cams.

5. More rambling slab climbing with bits of 5.9. Use the clean rock and bolts to guide you to the white rock and the top.

Rap the route with double ropes (50 m minimum). All belay/rappel stations are double bolts.

Location

Follow the standard Spring Mtn approach trail. When you first see the crag through the trees (~ 90% of the way up) the path forks. Steer left and side-hill to the cliff’s low point. Under massive old-growth firs, cross the obvious ‘spring’ (a tiny clear stream emerging from the wall’s base) to a shady slab with a huge grungy corner on its left. OST is the lone route up this slab - the first bolt is around 15’ up.

Protection

Draws/slings (14), gear to 2” (mostly cams) and skill to find good placements. OST is well protected but not a sport route.
Andrew Davidson
Everett, WA
 
Andrew Davidson   Everett, WA
 
Optional Rap Route from the P2 Anchors, is to rap down Pastor of Muppets. It's more of a straight line down. Apr 3, 2016