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Routes in Brown Wall Boulder

Flight of the Bumblebee V8 7B R
Swarm Direct, The V13-14 8B+ PG13
Swarm, The V14 8B+
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Matt Birch
Page Views: 800 total, 38/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Mar 26, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of America's finest crimp testpieces! Beautiful bulletproof quartz monzonite with small smooth holds in a majestic location!

Stand Start matched on a small right facing side pull and make a big move up left hand to a small crimp. From here make another long reach up with your other hand to a decent crimp rail. Position your feet and come in for the match! Then bust another move out right to another small crimp. Get a high left foot and do a big cross to a small flake.
Reach over with the right hand to a decent hold at the arete. Swap the left hand from a crimp to a side pull and gather all you have left in the gas tank. Make a big dynamic move up to the last hold. Crimp down hard on the left hand side pull in order to hold the swing! Match the diagnol lip and get up there! Finish up the slab(money) or walk righwards and drop down.

The Swarm Direct(v13) has also been done by Nalle in 2011. Instead of going right on the small seams and rails climb direct using whatever looks somewhat holdable!

Where?

Brown Wall boulder, far right side of the tall wall. Hard to miss. Most likely chalk will be visible on holds.

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