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Routes in Severity Buttress

Fata Morgana T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Huggin' The Hardpan T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Severity Disparity T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Severity Disparity Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Without Despair T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: James and Franziska Garrett
Page Views: 171 total · 6/month
Shared By: Sam Cannon on Mar 25, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description [Suggest Change]

Yet another stellar line from JG.

This route is the furthest to climber's right looking up at the buttress and ascends a series of bulges and fun corners. Route starts to the left of the recessed, vertical strip of chalky-white rock (which itself is just left of the cleft).

Solid 5.8 climbing on each pitch with good pro and supplementary bolts. Crux of each pitch seemed to be pulling bulges, which were very fun and thoughtful for the grade.

We descended from the third anchors to the right facing the hardpan. A 70m was required, though if you brought webbing and a biner you could make use of a bolted anchor that is currently (March 25, 2016) bereft of chains/cord and make it down with a 60.

Location [Suggest Change]

Far right side of Severity Butress.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single rack from small micros to #3 camalot, slings.

Photos

Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.9
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.9
Great route. Nice exposure over the hardpan with a fun mix of jams and face climbing. Most of the climb was easy and consistent 5.8 but following the bolt line near the top required some harder moves at 5.9 or higher. May 28, 2018

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