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Routes in Mt. Quadra

Gimme Shelter T WI6-7 R
Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Kevin Doyle, Tim Friesen. April, 1983
Page Views: 511 total, 25/month
Shared By: Dave Rone on Mar 24, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

This spectacular line was, as the Josephson guide says, "climbed way ahead of its time." And even today with modern equipment, it is a serious undertaking. The climbing is difficult and sustained, it doesn't let up. Furthermore, it is difficult to evaluate the route beforehand, althoughthe upper half can be seen from lot #3 at the Lake Louise ski area. There is avalanche hazard on the approach slopes, but undoubtedly the biggest hazard is ice and serac fall from the glacier on top. One is most exposed to serac fall on the approach slopes and on the snow benches.

The route will usually be climbed in 6 pitches, 70 m ropes are recommended. If the route is in fatter conditions, everything about the route will be easier, but when it's thin, good screws can be hard to find, anchors harder to build, and the hanging curtains will be much more difficult to climb and protect.

Location

Gimme Shelter is on the northeast face of Mt. Quadra, located at the south end of Consolation Lakes. It is approximately a 12 mile ski (4-6 hrs) from the parking area at the start of the Moraine Lake road to the base of the route.

Exit Hwy 1 at Lake Louise, and drive west toward the lake, and park at the Moraine Lake road (closed in winter) turnoff. Ski the road to Moraine Lake, all but the last two miles of which is groomed. Then ski the hiking trail to Consolation Lakes and bivy. Get an early start in the morning, climbing the route and then skiing out will be a long day!

Protection

Take a good selection of screws, particularly 10, and 13 cm. Have enough to build anchors and protect the pitch, there is no fixed pro or anchors. Possible some knifeblades and stoppers will be helpfull, although Jon and I didn't use any. Rappel from v-threads, 5 rappels with 70 m ropes.
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Nice work Dave and Jon. You have made the Midwest climber scene very proud! Way to get the hell after it... Mar 25, 2016