Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 639 total · 19/month
Shared By: Phildlm on Mar 23, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

2 new routes to the far right of the Sweet Pain wall. They're not in Jerry Handren's guidebook, or here on mountainproject.com.

The second from the far right is probably 5.7. Lots of holds, great beginner route. The holds are still a bit friable as the route is new. Well bolted except for a bit of easy runout at the top. Crux is getting to the first bolt but it's 5.7 max.

We didn't do the first but guessed it would go at 5.9 or so, and it has it's own set of anchors at the top. However those are not rap anchors and do not have chains. You'd likely have to leave something up there to pull your rope through it.

If the folks that put this up would like to add comments, and route names, that would be great!

Location

Second bolted route from the far right, on Sweet Pain wall.

Protection

There are anchor chains at the top, however the left anchor is already loose (the bolt moves inside the hole despite tightening the nut).

Photos

Francesca Parratt   England
Super sketchy bolts at the anchors, felt like they were close to failing; would not recommend using until replaced, use the anchors on the route to the right if you must do this one. Oct 24, 2018
The bolts on this anchor have been tightened. Oct 26, 2018