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Routes in Club Mex Wall

100 Bottles of Beer on the Wall S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Battle Royale (1st pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blazing Saddles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Club Mex S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Conflict S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devils Tongue, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fear of Flying S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gusada Negra S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lucy Goosy S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Salty Dog S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sour Grapes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Nova S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sword, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tami's Pillar S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegram for Mongo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Worm, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wright of Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Tyler Lunsford, Morgan Smith
Page Views: 471 total, 22/month
Shared By: Morgan F. Smith on Mar 20, 2016
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

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Description

This route is the start of a planned continuation of the 8 pitch classic, Supernova. The route starts in the obvious chimney and heads straight up before going around the arete to the slab on the left. A fun stemming sequence through the chimney gives way to a fun slab. More pitches will be added over the ensuing months up and to the left in the dihedral area to push the route to the next obvious ledge. The final headwall is also planned to be bolted, likely resulting in ~20 pitches once completed.

Pitch 1- 5.10a, stem up through the chimney, move out onto the slab early and continue up to the first set of anchors. 8 bolts, 28m.
Pitch 2- 5.10+, move left off the anchors to the dihedral area and continue upward. 7 bolts, 26m.

Named for the marvelous Lucy Lunsford, who graciously allowed some wedding funds to be diverted into bolting it!

Location

From the summit of Supernova, take the small path up the left side of the canyon to the obvious wall at the back of the canyon. Belay from out of the chimney.

Protection

Well protected with 1/2inch SS bolts & SS rap rings. Bolted in 2016.

Photos

Josiah Cooper
Lenexa, KS
Josiah Cooper   Lenexa, KS
So far this is the only bolted line at the top of Super Nova. Both pitches can be linked with a 70m rope and that's a good thing as the belayer is more protected from any rockfall on the 2nd pitch. Bring an alpine draw or two if you plan to link the pitches, as it will help to reduce your rope drag. There is still loose rock on both pitches, although it has been mostly cleaned. Fun chimney action up the first pitch and then fun face stuff on the second, this line was bolted really well, guys! Pysched to have claimed the second ascent, and even more excited to see what this project becomes!! Dec 13, 2016