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Routes in Triangle Peak

Black Forrest , The T WI3 M5
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 450 ft, Grade IV
FA: Feb.2016 – Robert Pelz, Alexander Bauer, Mitchell Bessette
Page Views: 163 total, 8/month
Shared By: Rob Ert on Mar 17, 2016
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

A Bavarian/Canadian route of sustained, technical climbing on generally good rock in a unique alpine environment with minimal avalanche hazard.

1. Start at Base of Triangle Falls. Climb Triangle falls or follow the easy ice and mixed gully to the right of the falls to the first snow ledge. Trend left to the obvious right facing dihedral with small cave. Follow easy mixed groove until 2 meters below the cave.
2. 40m M5- Traverse right to the slab with shallow features. Continue up on sustained, insecure moves with marginal protection to gain large flake on the right. Follow easier snow and rock steps to a bolted belay.
3. 50m M5 Trend Left up snow from belay to awkward move around left of protruding flake. Continue up to the base of obvious steep left facing corner. Pull the crux with good pro to gain the second large snow ledge.
4. Traverse right from outcrop for roughly 70m to the base of right trending, slabby channel.
5. 60m M4+ Follow moss filled seam to easier ground and the base of steep rock step.
6. 65m M4 Follow the weakness on similar ground traversing right to the third snow ledge. Walk up snow ledge to find 2 fixed pitons at the base of an obvious crack feature on the steep wall
7. Traverse left on snow ledge toward easier ground. Make rising traverse left to a snow step below a rock pinnacle with steep slab above.
8. 60m M5 Step left around into right trending groove. Transition left to steep slab with poor rock. Continue up and right to an obvious right trending crack at the base of an overhang, make powerful moves on good holds with bad feet. Head left over a small bulge, up lower angle channel until forced to step right. Continue up to base of rock fin.
9. 70m M4+ Make exposed traverse (10m) along rock to the right of fin to reach an off vertical wall with obvious crack system. High quality, exposed climbing with good protection follows frozen cracks to an obvious groove. Top out over a final rock step. (70m ropes not necessary but open options for belay)

Location

As for Triangle Falls. Get creative with river crossing. First Ascensionists used a canoe.
Descent – Walk off West down the Ridge. Escape via snow ledges may be possible.

Protection

Gear - Standard alpine climbing rack plus extra pitons.
Fixed Gear - 1 bolted belay (from unknown route), 2 fixed belay pitons at 6th belay, and 1 fixed piton on final pitch

Photos

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