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Ward Cleaver

5.11c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > C: Keene Region > Typhoon Wall

Description

This route ascends an incredible knife-edged arete. The crux is at the start above the first bolt, and there's another hard move at the top.

Location

From the base of the main Typhoon Wall, walk left and up a dead-end gully at the left end of the cliff. Tsunami Slap-Up (5.12b) is the prominent arete on the right side of the gully. Go up the gully and break left up a rock step onto a terrace. Walk 40' left to this knife-edge arete. There is a deep full-length chimney just to the right.

Protection

Bolts. Fixed anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ross Manny redpointing Ward Cleaver
[Hide Photo] Ross Manny redpointing Ward Cleaver
Ward Cleaver.
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ross Manny
Saranac Lake, NY
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] This line is stellar! The moves are intricate, the rock is superb. I short clipped the first bolt with a locker, which seemed like a good idea that I stole from someone else:) The beta is more sequential down low, but the upper crux felt harder for me than the bottom. There are chains at the top, so no directional is necessary. May 6, 2020