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Routes in Cottonwood Canyon / Fisher Creek

Mickey Mouse Club Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 280 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mickey Guziak, Robert Rowsam, Peter Blank, March 2016
Page Views: 764 total · 34/month
Shared By: Mickey Guziak on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a huge tower located on a neck cutoff of Fisher Creek that somehow was unclimbed until now. Expect an adventure.

P1. Start on the northwest side, climb up to the left of the large chimney, and then crawl over to get started. Follow cracks up through sporty/loose climbing until you make it into the chimney. Continue up and behind some chockstones until you reach a large ledge in an alcove where you can build a belay with a few hand-sized pieces at a bedding seam, 5.9.

P2. Climb out of the alcove, and traverse around into a big chimney system. Continue up to a ledge and through a small slot where you can build a belay with a #6 Camalot. 5.8

P3. Climb the offwidth/chimney, and traverse right around some choss up to a slope. Follow to the right into a chimney, and end at a the main deck. Belay with some small cams or a meat belay. 5.9

P4. Summit pitch. Climb the tallest, mousiest looking summit. Aid on small pro up to the top, clipping one drilled angle on a blank section. The summit anchor is a sling wrapped around a bomber block. 5.8 C2

Location

Hike up Fisher Creek for a few miles. The tower is obvious on the right when two large drainages converge. Spot it out on the topo map first. To get down, do 1 short rap from the summit then 1 long double rope rap from an anchor just left of the summit (70m ropes).

Protection

Bring doubles from #0-4 Camalots; 1 #5, 1 #6; triples in #0.75-2 for the first pitch; aiders for the summit pitch; some cord to replace anchors; and 2 70m ropes.

Photos

Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
I found it by looking at topo maps in the area and noticed a peak of sorts. We went out to scope it out and found a monstrosity! Mar 16, 2016
Wow, Micky, how did you guys find that? Mar 15, 2016