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Routes in The Confluence

Baby Wipe Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Better Safe than Sorry T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crimson King T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Farson-Larr (extension to The Larson-Farr), The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ghetto Booty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greatest and Best Pitch In The World, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gunswinger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm No Sports Climber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junk in the Trunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Larson-Farr, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Qi Wah Wah T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Salty Dog Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smashmouth T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Take Back The Rainbow T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tribute S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Matt Farrell
Page Views: 414 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Larson-Farr is a classic, beautiful Creek-style #1 C4 splitter, however, the splitter continues past the chains through two roofs. I went and pushed the line to its logical endpoint above the 2nd roof. Its sweet to lead the whole thing (Larson-Farr and Farson-Larr) as one big pitch.

After climbing the Larson-Farr, start with a laser-cut section of .75 C4s right off the chains, then climb up under the first roof on some face holds and get a full no-hands rest. Pull the thin hands roof (with good feet on the wall), and continue up a vertical handcrack to the 2nd roof. The 2nd roof starts #1 C4s and widens to a #4 C4 before grabbing jugs. The anchors are immediately past the second roof. Two big bomber bolts with chain and coldshuts.

The best way to do the line is to just climb both pitches as one single long pitch. The rack isn't that huge, and ropedrag can be managed pretty well. Two ropes will get you down easy and allow for TRing.

Apparently you can TR with a single 80m, though I have not done it myself.

A single 70 will not reach to the ground, but you could get yourself back to the mid-way anchor, clip in, pull, re-thread, and continue lowering from there. Makes it much harder to TR however. If your second wants to TR, then consider bringing them up to the midway anchor - its a comfy ledge to belay on.

The line is a bit sandy, but all loose rock has been trundled, and it will clean up nicely with some ascents.

Location

Continuation of the Larson-Farr.

Protection

For the Farson-Larr (the extension), bring:
1x .3 C3
2x .4 C4
2x .5 C4
3x .75 C4
1x #1 C4
2x #2 C4
1x #3 C4
1x #4 C4

Plus lots of shoulder length slings to reduce rope drag - its a pretty long pitch when you link.

See the Larson-Farr page for what to bring for the lower half.

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Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
 
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
 
Thanks Gordon! Good find on the first pitch - really fun route! May 4, 2016
Gordon Larsen
St. George, Utah
Gordon Larsen   St. George, Utah
I like your name of the extension. Fun play on names. I had thought about getting back out there and extending the climb but never had the right partner at the right time. Good job. May 4, 2016

More About The Farson-Larr (extension to The Larson-Farr)

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