Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Matt Farrell
Page Views: 1,865 total · 19/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

11 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Larson-Farr is a classic, beautiful Creek-style #1 C4 splitter, however, the splitter continues past the chains through two roofs. I went and pushed the line to its logical endpoint above the 2nd roof. Its sweet to lead the whole thing (Larson-Farr and Farson-Larr) as one big pitch.

After climbing the Larson-Farr, start with a laser-cut section of .75 C4s right off the chains, then climb up under the first roof on some face holds and get a full no-hands rest. Pull the thin hands roof (with good feet on the wall), and continue up a vertical handcrack to the 2nd roof. The 2nd roof starts #1 C4s and widens to a #4 C4 before grabbing jugs. The anchors are immediately past the second roof. Two big bomber bolts with chain and coldshuts.

The best way to do the line is to just climb both pitches as one single long pitch. The rack isn't that huge, and ropedrag can be managed pretty well. Two ropes will get you down easy and allow for TRing.

Apparently you can TR with a single 80m, though I have not done it myself.

A single 70 will not reach to the ground, but you could get yourself back to the mid-way anchor, clip in, pull, re-thread, and continue lowering from there. Makes it much harder to TR however. If your second wants to TR, then consider bringing them up to the midway anchor - its a comfy ledge to belay on.

The line is a bit sandy, but all loose rock has been trundled, and it will clean up nicely with some ascents.

Location Suggest change

Continuation of the Larson-Farr.

Protection Suggest change

For the Farson-Larr (the extension), bring:
1x .3 C3
2x .4 C4
2x .5 C4
3x .75 C4
1x #1 C4
2x #2 C4
1x #3 C4
1x #4 C4

Plus lots of shoulder length slings to reduce rope drag - its a pretty long pitch when you link.

See the Larson-Farr page for what to bring for the lower half.


- No Photos -