Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Larson and Farr
Page Views: 873 total · 25/month
Shared By: Matt Farrell on Mar 14, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A few hundred yards past Smashmouth is a beautiful Creek style splitter underneath a couple roofs. A great route, especially if you like #1 C4s.

Start in an easy fist crack for 20 feet, then pull into the perfect #1 C4 splitter. Jam #1s until the crack widens to #2s right below the small ledge and clip the nice looking anchor.

If you have the psyche and the gear, either bring your partner up and do the Farson-Larr (pitch 2), or even better get a full no hands rest at the Larson-Farr anchors and then push on to the top of the Farson-Larr in a single ~40m pitch.

Location

Maybe 300 or 400 yards past Smashmouth. Some bushwacking required.

The best path is to drop 100 feet down a gully immediately past Smashmouth, then follow cairns on a decent path through bushes, and then head back up the hill when you are nearly underneath the route.

Protection

1x .75 C4
4-6x #1 C4
1x #2 C4
1x #4 C4

Photos

KG
SLC, UT
  5.11a
KG   SLC, UT
  5.11a
Really fantastic pitch. Would see more traffic if it wasnt such a hike. If you're waiting in line for Smashmouth go do this thing. Oct 27, 2018