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Routes in East Side

Brown Thrasher T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Go For It T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Quackmore Duck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderbird T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Glenn Schuler
Page Views: 401 total, 20/month
Shared By: Glenn Schuler on Mar 13, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start off of the boulder below & left of the first bolt. Make a reachy clip at the first bolt, and continue up to the ledge below the second bolt, placing a couple cams along the way. Get a rest here, and then keep cranking up the steep wall with flawless stone and technical moves as the pump builds.

EDIT: I added 1 bolt to the direct start which is definitely the way to do this thing. Adds a few .10+ moves up to the ledge before the second bolt. There are two places for gear between bolts 1 and 2 which are easily scoped from the ground.

Location

It is on the East side of Bird Rock, best approached from the north side of the crag. Start approximately 20' left of the splitter finger crack of Go For It. Step off a small boulder to clip the first bolt.

Protection

9 bolts, a couple cams up to 1 1/2" between bolts 1 and 2, and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
This is a great route with fun steep jug hauling to a powerful crux. We also got on the newly bolted route to the right of "Go for It," and thought that was a touch harder. Cool area with great views! Sep 11, 2016