Mountain Project Logo

Routes in unsorted Clough State Park routes

Type: TR, Boulder, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 510 total, 25/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Mar 13, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The hardest line on the tall face of Mammoth Rock. This line starts in the middle of the wall. Left of "State of Fear" and right of "Timeline". Pull onto the great rock using small incut crimps, and make hard moves to blind holds in the smooth granite flake systems on the wall. This line is a direct and topout at the apex of the boulder about 25 feet off the deck. An early exit may be possible.

Location

Follow the buoys into the woods. Turn right and walk for five minutes. This is the largest boulder in the park (Until you find the "Colossus" way beyond the South End). The slabs are covered in moss. This is the most natural line on the rock and it is clean.

Protection

Minimum of 6 pads if going for the first ascent. 10 would be better. Bring your friends and a change of underwear.

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
It looks more rusted out in person than in the photo, I wouldn't want to use it personally. Sep 19, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
That pin looks pretty recent to me, especially given the environment. Couple of years at most. Sep 19, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH

The bolt is actually an old piton pounded into a small crack at the top. I believe someone probably used to practice aid with it, although I do know someone who said they put up a 5.12 on this boulder, although that might be the left arete you see coming from the backside of the boulder that wraps around the whole boulder. Sep 19, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
 
Man, I just saw Lee the other day! I'll have to get him out there sometime. It looks like there is some potential for trad climbs on the cliffs around the area as well. Sep 18, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Perhaps Lee could throw one in since he's relatively local? Or maybe we could borrow a drill from someone and plug one in? I'm guessing if it's an old bolt, that it's probably a 1/4 inch, so we probably need to drill a new hole. Perhaps the omnipresent Mark Sprague will comment and tell us what to do? :) Sep 18, 2016
Brad Fauteux
Henniker, NH
 
Brad Fauteux   Henniker, NH
 
I think it would be a very good idea to replace the bolt. It would make working this line and State of Fear easier, and it would also allow for a more thorough and safer way to clean the boulder. Troy was cleaning the arete of State of Fear and he said he was scared of slipping off. Then again it was wet that day and also look at his "Warrior" video. Lol. Sep 18, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Perhaps it should be replaced? Unless there's another way to set up a fixed line on this boulder. It would be nice to clean the upper holds, work the moves and test how solid they are. But maybe that's just me. :) I'm psyched to check this out when I get back. Sep 17, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Yes, it looks old and terrifying though. Crux seems to be down low off small holds into a big undercling, I dropped off there because it was 95 degrees out, don't think this one will be harder than v8 actually. Sep 15, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Is there a bolt on top for cleaning/working the climb? Sep 15, 2016
Walter Galli
Sint Maarten
Walter Galli   Sint Maarten
Pictures please... Jul 18, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
I'd love to see a photo! :D Mar 14, 2016