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Routes in Breakheart Ledge

A Bitter Bale V3+ 6A+
Battle of the Gunt V5 6C
High Hopes V3 6A
Sniffles V0 4 PG13
Woe Down, The V0 4
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 3/12/2016
Page Views: 139 total, 7/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Mar 13, 2016
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

A pretty classic, fun line, if I may say so myself. At the overhanging bouldering wall at the left side of the crag, look for a low slopey horizontal that starts from a big flake system below a left facing corner. Sit down start at the left side of the flake, pop up to the horizontal and move left using the slopers and kneebars to where the crack heads up and splits and you can get a nice incut edge down and left. Follow the left branch of the crack to its end where you can get a tips jam (tape). Work your feet and crank for the horizontal above. At the horizontal, avoiding the tree in back of you, continue left on slopers until you can pop for a jug at the lip and press the top out. I didn't use the right branch of the crack as it has a root growing down it and is usually damp. If it ever dries out, that might be a bit easier variation.

An obvious future link-up would be to continue left on the high horizontal and top out as on High Hopes

Location

Left side of the crag, on the obvious overhanging wall

Protection

a couple pads. A few wraps of tape highly recommended on the first 2 phalanges of the left index finger for the tips jam

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I don't have a real feel for the grade on this. It was damp much of the time when I was first working it and it seemed harder than say Temperance V5, but it seemed easy of course once I dialed it all in. You know how that is. Get on it, conditions are great now, and let me know what you think. If you haven't been out to this spot yet, it is well worth the 10 min hike out and there are plenty of good new lines to do. Mar 13, 2016