Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Crew Crag

Balance of Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush League T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Horse Schist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 135 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thompson, Trevor Bowman & Bryan Schmitz 2005
Page Views: 99 total, 5/month
Shared By: B-Mkll Mackall on Mar 11, 2016 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1: Stem and jam up the short dihedral, skirt left under the bulge, and follow the finger crack to the ledge w/ chains.

P2: Climb up some blocky terrain to meet up with a vertical hand/fist crack with good feet, take it to the top!

Fun for a short 2P tick, but way overshadowed by the other routes on this section of cliff. Rock is pretty solid.

Location

Just right and uphill of Balance of Power and Horse Schist, on the river-facing face. Starts in the obvious dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

Photos

- No Photos -
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
Matt,
The original 2nd pitch went up a right-facing corner/chimney and was pretty junky as I recall. It kept the whole route at 5.7. FA: Pete Thompson, Trevor Bowman, Bryan Schmitz, Sept. 2005

Bush League Direct is more like 5.9ish. It cuts left from P1 belay ledge, past a short arĂȘte with a couple of bolts and up a groove feature to the top. Not great, but a better finish for sure. We put bolts in on top, but no chain as I recall. Walk off right or rap Balance of Power. FA: Trevor Bowman, Bryan Schmitz, Pete Thompson, Oct. 2005. Apr 19, 2017
Matt Wenger
Bozeman
 
Matt Wenger   Bozeman
 
Is P2 of this route the one that goes off to the right, or directly up from the P1 anchors? Apr 18, 2017