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Routes in Iron Buttress

Chocolate Bandit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good Time To Be Pretty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Irony Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 185 total · 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The short, four-star arête tragically deteriorates into a forgettable mixed-bag of 1-star climbing. The best that can be said about the final 30 feet is that it packs in a lot of variety, but if you deviate at all from the bolt line, expect to find some questionable rock.

Begin easily up the magnificent arête, which culminates in a long, balancy reach to a narrow ledge on the left face. Mantel onto the ledge for a good shake below the obvious roof. Sequential cranks around the ceiling gain a no-hands ledge followed by a stretch of easy scrambling to the first of two successive bulges (optional 0 or 00 TCU here). Save something for the second bulge, just below the anchor, which is just hard enough to spoil a send.

Location

This is the furthest right bolted line on the wall.

Protection

A stick clip is mandatory. 7 bolts to 2 BA. Consider an optional 0 or 00 TCU (or similar) to protect easy moves above the 4th bolt.

Photos

Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.11
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.11
Loaded with loose rock - we probably dropped a dozen or so.... Sep 9, 2017