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Routes in Iron Buttress

Chocolate Bandit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good Time To Be Pretty S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Iron Maiden S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Irony Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Mark Anderson
Page Views: 377 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 10, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This outstanding route is characterized by a series of thin cruxes split by good, active rests. The climbing is excellent and sustained throughout, on phenomenal stone.

Hard, technical face climbing typical of the wall leads to the first bolt and a good shake at the obvious break. Relatively easier moves lead to the next break and a taxing rest before the route’s crux — a long reach past the third bolt. This problem can be surmounted with power or guile (or perhaps a huge wingspan), depending on your skillset. Another short boulder problem leads to a small roof capped by a blank headwall. Move slightly right here to find incut, hero jugs that lead to the anchor.

Location

This is the second bolted line from the left.

Protection

A stick clip is mandatory. 5 bolts to 2 BA.

Photos

aikibujin
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
aikibujin   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
The crux on this one was almost a show stopper for me. I thought the move was impossible, until I figured out some unlikely beta. For reference, I'm 5'7" with 0 ape index, and I was just barely able to get my finger tips on the good hold above the undercling. If you have less of a wingspan, you'll have to use some very small intermediate holds on the blank face between the undercling and the good hold above. Mar 24, 2016