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Routes in The Lighthouse

Fame and Notoriety T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Original Route T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
People of the Sun T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spaceman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jake Dayley, Dustin Wildermuth - May 2012
Page Views: 189 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Mar 10, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This route is 5 pitches but only pitches 1 and 2 are described here. The dihedral on pitch three never went free and above it the rock quality deteriorates. Message me if you want info on 3-5.

Pitch 1 - 5.10, 140'. Mega! Stellar sustained 5.10 fingers. Forty feet of 5.9 face lead to the limestone band. Work through it and a cruxy section just above and you'll hit the fingers. Fingers and more fingers with a brief easy OW section then back to fingers. At about 100 feet above the limestone band step right to a two bolt semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 2 - 5.10-, 50'. Work through a few right-angling awkward moves and then up easier terrain to a two-bolt belay at the base of the dihedral.

Rappel - Rap 190' back to your packs.

Location

The obvious right-angling crack system on the north face of the Lighthouse

Protection

(2) tips sized pieces.
3-4 thin to big fingers (.3-.5 camalots).
1-2 each up to hands (.75-2 camalots).
One fist sized piece optional.

(2) 60m ropes.

Photos

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