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Routes in Elba Rock

Back for More T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rapide Coup S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Selena Pang, Jan 2015
Page Views: 127 total · 4/month
Shared By: Gokul on Mar 9, 2016
Admins: Gokul

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Description

Climb the dihedral to the roof block, using good stems along the way. Put longs slings on your gear here, then head left into the little alcove and make an exposed move to step out onto the face left of the roof.

It's probably best to build an anchor here - or deal with heinous rope drag - whether you're bringing up a second or setting a top-rope. Save finger to hand-sized pieces (I used the orange, red and black Metolius Power Cams), for the anchor. From the anchor, there's about 10 feet of easy (5.4-ish) but exposed climbing to the top, where you could also get some pieces in if needed (less solid gear there - I think the pink tricam would be handy - unless you have Big-Bros).

From the top, head right and down onto the right face, to the bolted anchors of Rapide Coup, equipped with quick-links to rap from. Or head to the back and downclimb very carefully.

Location

Elba rock is pretty small. This dihedral-to-roof crack dominates its appearance.

Protection

Single rack from 0.3 to #3 might be sufficient, but I had some doubles in finger to hand sizes and found them useful for the top anchor.

Photos

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Gokul
Madison, WIsconsin
  5.10
Gokul   Madison, WIsconsin  
  5.10
The route was cleaned on aid by Sohan before the FA. There's still a small sandy section midway up the dihedral, but that should get better as the route sees more ascents. Mar 10, 2016

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