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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Destination Oblivion S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Inconceivable S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mostly Dead S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Headed She Devil S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uncle Funs Basement S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Geoff Fullerton
Page Views: 569 total · 25/month
Shared By: drjman on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start at the first two bolts of Mostly dead to reach the belay ledge and rap anchors. This can be done as two pitches or lower to the belay ledge and rap down.
A 70m rope with stretch can barely manage it in one pitch.

Protection

2 bolts to belay station, 9 bolts to 3 open-shut anchors

Photos

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Todd F  
Movements are fun (theres a layback to deadpoint pinch thats a great great move) but rock still needs a lot of cleaning up, WEAR A HELMET (climber and belayer). There are a couple moves that I would absolutely call 5.9+, most of which seem to occur just before clips, which are a bit spicy by my judge of 5.8. Additionally. it will probably get harder as it cleans up. Example: after making the 8th clip the loaf of bread size rock I was standing on went tumbling to the ground right into the slot canyon by the ground belay stance. That made the stance significantly more critical.

Also, notes on protection because both the guidebook and descriptions seem wrong/confusing if you are clmbing it from the ground. I would...
clip the first two bolts of mostly dead
extend the third bolt on mostly dead with a double
extend the midpoint anchors with a single
9 bolts to anchors

in total that means a 11 draws + 1 single + 1 double to make rope drag manageable. It also protects a potential ground fall if you make a mistake before clipping the midpoint anchors. Dec 23, 2017
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Despite a few spots of suspicious rock, this is a very good route. The upper half is continuously interesting 5.8+ climbing. A 70 meter rope makes it to the ground in one rap; with a 60 meter two raps are recommended. Dec 2, 2016