Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|FA:||Edmands, Hinchliffe, Hogan, Froelich - March 3, 2016|
|Page Views:||208 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Shredmands on Mar 7, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe "Trueverse" is a super fun and sustained hand traverse that crosses 9 climbs, utilizing existing bolts, in approximately 150 feet. It's a climb to be done only when it's real quiet at the crag though. Embarking on this journey with someone else climbing what you're about to cross is a bad move - so be smart.
-What's good about it?:
It's long, fun, adventurous, and challenging with loads of good handholds, great friction, and it's mostly protectable with bolts.
-What's bad about it?:
Still a little dirty with some suspect flakes and lichen, feet can be tricky in spots, requires some gear placements to be safer, big pendulum fall potential for leader and follower in places, rope drag, and it's only climbable when no one else is climbing in the area.
Although it's 95% bolt protected you'll want to bring along some cams and slings.
Right after leaving the third bolt on "The Pumpkin", as the actual traversing begins, the feet get tiny and the hand holds can be tricky on the bulge for about 15 feet. Place a piece as soon as you can and place it well. A second bulge comes after passing "I think the Devil Just Called My Name", and is a little heads up. Some of the rock is suspect in places so use really good judgment to eliminate the risk of blowing a piece if you or the follower fall. DON'T place any cams behind flakes - only in solid rock. Check holds before yarding on them.
IF YOU DON'T HAVE EXPERIENCE PLACING GEAR THEN AVOID THIS ROUTE! - Unless, of course, you want to take unnecessary risks.
The nature of this climb, and the belay, makes this climb feel like a multi-pitch. Be sure you know what you're doing before you start.
LocationRoute starts on "The Pumpkin". Climb straight up for three bolts through orange lichen and traverse climbers right into the obvious horizontal crack/flake system all the way to "Swallowed".
Belay follower from the anchors on "Swallowed" and rappel from there when finished. Alternately, you can choose to belay from any of the anchors on the climbs you pass en-route if they are close to the line (ex. "Izzy-b"). This will minimize rope drag and could break the climb into two pitches.
Protection60 or 70 meter rope, cams .3-2", 5-8 alpine draws (for bolts above traverse and extending cams), 8 quickdraws, rappel style belay devices for leader and follower. Bolted anchor.
MAKE SURE TO KEEP THE FOLLOWER IN MIND WHEN PLACING PROTECTION - especially right after leaving the third bolt on the "Pumpkin" - where the traverse begins. It's a long way to the next bolt and that means a long ugly pendulum fall. Place gear as soon as you can and place it well.