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Hercamur Snurd
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in The Citadel
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Anticipation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Arch Rival T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Best Forgotten Art T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Clem's Folly T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Finger Breakers TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finger Zinger S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Glad We Came S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hercamur Snurd T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Iron Worker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Little Diddle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Murray's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Romper Room T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Second Thoughts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Stem Cell Research T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Styx n Stones T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whole Banana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Gillis et. al. ca 1979 |
| Page Views: | 848 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Karl R. Kiser on Mar 7, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
People climb the first two pitches and rap. The 5.11 third pitch has been climbed only a few times and should be considered X now given the old bolts on the route. The first three pitches were short, definitely less than half a 50m rope.
p1: face climb left and up, clip a bolt, and pull the bulge. Continue up to the fixed belay. Originally this was a 5.9 pitch (better to think of as 5.10a).
p2: slab climb right past a couple of bolts and go to a corner. Climb into a shallow dihedral, pass a fixed pin, and reach the headwall. Traverse left, exposed, to another fixed anchor. This was another 5.9 pitch better thought of as 5.10a today. Lower to the first anchor and let the second person clean the route. Both persons can rap from this station to the ground.
p3: another shorter pitch with a couple of fixed pieces. This is the crux pitch and is currently unsafe until someone replaces the old fixed gear. The climbing consisted of hard face climbing and a mantle.
p4: this is a long pitch which simply goes to the top in the easiest fashion.
p1: face climb left and up, clip a bolt, and pull the bulge. Continue up to the fixed belay. Originally this was a 5.9 pitch (better to think of as 5.10a).
p2: slab climb right past a couple of bolts and go to a corner. Climb into a shallow dihedral, pass a fixed pin, and reach the headwall. Traverse left, exposed, to another fixed anchor. This was another 5.9 pitch better thought of as 5.10a today. Lower to the first anchor and let the second person clean the route. Both persons can rap from this station to the ground.
p3: another shorter pitch with a couple of fixed pieces. This is the crux pitch and is currently unsafe until someone replaces the old fixed gear. The climbing consisted of hard face climbing and a mantle.
p4: this is a long pitch which simply goes to the top in the easiest fashion.
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