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Routes in Ace's Face

Dealer's Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jokers Wild T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Edmund Ward et. al.
Page Views: 127 total · 4/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details


p1: climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof. Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge. Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin. Traverse right to a stance near a bush.

p2: short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face.

p3: a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system.

p4: another short pitch near the top of the climb. Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.


The route starts right center of the clean face. Find a small right facing dihedral which goes to a longer roof. Rap the route (2 ropes)--2 raps.


Standard Organ trad rack. Bring a bolt kit and webbing to buck up the old rap route.


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Drew Chojnowski
Las Cruces, NM
Drew Chojnowski   Las Cruces, NM  
Having climbed what we thought was Jokers Wild based on the Southwestern Mountaineers topo…, it seems that the description of this route pertains to the Jokers Wild variation, which would be harder. What we climbed had a 5.9 crux involving fist jams to crank over a short roof. 5 days ago
Karl R. Kiser
Karl R. Kiser  
This is the way we always climbed the route. Perhaps the topo was not entirely accurate. 5 days ago

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