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Routes in Ace's Face

Dealer's Choice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jokers Wild T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Edmund Ward et. al.
Page Views: 127 total · 4/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

p1: climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof. Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge. Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin. Traverse right to a stance near a bush.

p2: short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face.

p3: a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system.

p4: another short pitch near the top of the climb. Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.

Location

The route starts right center of the clean face. Find a small right facing dihedral which goes to a longer roof. Rap the route (2 ropes)--2 raps.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. Bring a bolt kit and webbing to buck up the old rap route.

Photos

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Drew Chojnowski
Las Cruces, NM
Drew Chojnowski   Las Cruces, NM  
Having climbed what we thought was Jokers Wild based on the Southwestern Mountaineers topo mountainproject.com/photo/1…, it seems that the description of this route pertains to the Jokers Wild variation, which would be harder. What we climbed had a 5.9 crux involving fist jams to crank over a short roof. 5 days ago
Karl R. Kiser
  5.8+
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.8+
This is the way we always climbed the route. Perhaps the topo was not entirely accurate. 5 days ago

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