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Routes in Ace's Face

Jokers Wild T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Edmund Ward et. al.
Page Views: 58 total · 3/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Mar 7, 2016
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

p1: climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof. Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge. Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin. Traverse right to a stance near a bush.

p2: short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face.

p3: a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system.

p4: another short pitch near the top of the climb. Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.

Location

The route starts right center of the clean face. Find a small right facing dihedral which goes to a longer roof. Rap the route (2 ropes)--2 raps.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. Bring a bolt kit and webbing to buck up the old rap route.

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