Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA: Edmund Ward et. al. prior to July 78
Page Views: 744 total · 8/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Mar 7, 2016 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Warning Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

p1: climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof. Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge. Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin. Traverse right to a stance near a bush.

p2: short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face.

p3: a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system.

p4: another short pitch near the top of the climb. Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.

Location Suggest change

The route starts right center of the clean face. Find a small right facing dihedral which goes to a longer roof. Rap the route (2 ropes)--2 raps.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Organ trad rack. Bring a bolt kit and webbing to buck up the old rap route.

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