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The Road Goes Ever On
5.11+,
Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
FA: Bernard Gillett
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> S Fork of St Vr…
> December Wall
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022. From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
I have been attempting the second pitch of this route as a link up with
Telegraph Road and didn't realize it had a first pitch that is basically a variation of
Life After James. I have taken Bernard Gillett's description from a previous comment on MP (if this is inappropriate use of his comment, please inform me, and I will change the description).
"Excellent climbing, a little squeezed (between
Telegraph Road and
Winter Dreams), but worth the bolts in my opinion. The first pitch (5.10b) begins with
Life After James (clip its first 7 bolts, staying to the right) and then follows the thin cracks (gear) just left of the upper half of pitch 1 on
Telegraph Road to its belay. The second pitch goes straight up (7 bolts, reachy opening moves that can be avoided on the right, with 5.11 crux at bolt 4, harder than the crux on pitch 2 of
Telegraph Road -- I rated it 5.11b)."
Location
Protection
Thin gear and quickdraws.
Pinewood Springs
Beta: although falling repeatedly, the 11b was much harder than some 11c's I've been on. First I tried straight up, then I tried right. I kept slipping on the smooth face; finally going left I found a micro foot hold that I was able to use to get to the dike left of the next bolt. With luck, I was just able to make the traverse, clip that sucker (i.e. bolt), and grab the QD. After that, I didn't have any problem. Nov 21, 2016
Boulder CO