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The Road Goes Ever On

5.11+, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: Bernard Gillett
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > December Wall
Warning Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays DetailsDrop down

Description

I have been attempting the second pitch of this route as a link up with Telegraph Road and didn't realize it had a first pitch that is basically a variation of Life After James. I have taken Bernard Gillett's description from a previous comment on MP (if this is inappropriate use of his comment, please inform me, and I will change the description).

"Excellent climbing, a little squeezed (between Telegraph Road and Winter Dreams), but worth the bolts in my opinion. The first pitch (5.10b) begins with Life After James (clip its first 7 bolts, staying to the right) and then follows the thin cracks (gear) just left of the upper half of pitch 1 on Telegraph Road to its belay. The second pitch goes straight up (7 bolts, reachy opening moves that can be avoided on the right, with 5.11 crux at bolt 4, harder than the crux on pitch 2 of Telegraph Road -- I rated it 5.11b)."

Location

Do the same start as for Life After James.

Protection

Thin gear and quickdraws.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.12b R
[Hide Comment] I did the first 10b pitch yesterday, and the runout after placing small cam & nut was really scary. Halfway up the runout, I almost peeled. I do not recommend it, since if you fall, you might hit the broken ledge.

Beta: although falling repeatedly, the 11b was much harder than some 11c's I've been on. First I tried straight up, then I tried right. I kept slipping on the smooth face; finally going left I found a micro foot hold that I was able to use to get to the dike left of the next bolt. With luck, I was just able to make the traverse, clip that sucker (i.e. bolt), and grab the QD. After that, I didn't have any problem. Nov 21, 2016
Ralph Swansen
Boulder CO
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Opening move is 11b. The slab moves above are more like solid 11d. Apr 25, 2020