Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Diamond Face

Bob and Eric Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Daughters of a Coral Dawn T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diamond in the Tuff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Pile S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keeps Me Out of Rusty's (KMOOR) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Cat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dan and Debbie Haughelstine 1990
Page Views: 187 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Awesome route that follows a reversed S shaped line of mostly incut edges and pockets. The hardest move for me was getting to the first bolt. After that thoughtful movement leads to the technical crux mid way, then keeps you on your toes until after the last bolt. From there a bit runout to the anchor on slightly cruncy low angle rock.(pockets that will accept gear are abundant though, I placed a .5 Tri-cam) Other than the runout to the anchor the bolting is perfect on this thing. The anchor on top could use some loving and I would recommend rapping to save your rope. I give it 4 out of 5 stars.

Location

This route is just right of the obvious splitter Bob and Eric Crack.

Protection

7 bolts plus a pink Tri-cam or cam of similar size to mitigate the runout to the anchor(or not, not that bad).

Photos

- No Photos -
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10b
i didn't think this route was all that great. wandering and a bit awkward, rock quality okay (not great) for the most part, choss on top. feels more on the 10b side. the straight line up to the left anchor looks much nicer. hopefully marty can stick some bolts on it. Nov 4, 2017
Did this again, love it. Other then the start,it has great holds throughout. Many might not like the lower angle finish but the holds are great and adds to the route in my opinion. May 8, 2016
I think this is the most underrated route, as far as quality, I have done in the Gorge. If it weren't for the slightly crunchy low angle finish it would be 4 stars. Can move over and tr the awesome crack to the left (Bob and Eric Crack). Mar 8, 2016