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Routes in Diamond Face

Bob and Eric Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dirt Pile S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keeps Me Out of Rusty's (KMOOR) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Cat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bandob Herrington, Eric Hein 1984
Page Views: 243 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Not only my new favorite crack in the Gorge but on my top ten list of favorite routes here.This would be a four star route if it were not for a bit of loose rock. PG rating for some questionable rock. Nice to have the belayer off to the side. That being said I did not knock anything off but I did climb it cautiously. Also there is no fixed anchor above this climb. Extra hand size gear for the anchor or belay from Mad Cat anchor 15' right.

Location

This is the obvious splitter just left of Mad Cat

Protection

.5 C4-3 w/extras in .75 & 1. A few slots for bomber hand size hex or tricam

Photos

Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10a
This has seen a bit of traffic, found a fair amount of chalk, and is cleaning up a bit. Lead it again and it is so good. May 8, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
really fun route, solid jams throughout with many constrictions and occasional face holds and pockets on the sides. easier if you jam and stem vs. just jam. in the valley this would be 5.9 (thinking 2nd pitch of reeds). why the pg-13? this thing swallows solid pro anywhere along the entire crack. definitely gear up on .75 and 1" pro. Nov 4, 2017
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Walked by this too many times--such an obvious, beautiful challenge. Got it done today--super fun! So many great hand jams and great pro. Yeah, and no PG 13. This is classic, well-protected climbing, but it's steep! Vertical to overhanging. Persist through each difficulty and you'll be rewarded by another killer jam. Definitely worth bringing the trad gear.

IMPORTANT NEWS: There is now an anchor at the top of the pitch with fat links and mussy's. The bolts have been there for a little while, but the install and hardware are courtesy of MisterE. Thanks! Mussy's went on today. Dec 6, 2017
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10a
When I posted this climb there were several sizable loose chunks here and there where an inexperienced climber may place questionable pro or pull something down on their belayer. Hope this is now not the case. Glad a few folks can appreciate what a gem this climb is. Dec 6, 2017
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Hey, Jeff: I don't recall anything too loose, especially regarding gear in the crack, which always seemed to be excellent. There is a small amount of kitty litter stuff in the last couple of moves, but I didn't bother me at all--plenty of good edges, and the crack is clean and smooth for good gear. Dec 7, 2017

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