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Routes in Diamond Face

Bob and Eric Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Daughters of a Coral Dawn T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diamond in the Tuff S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirt Pile S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keeps Me Out of Rusty's (KMOOR) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mad Cat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zig Zag T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bandob Herrington, Eric Hein 1984
Page Views: 180 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 6, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Not only my new favorite crack in the Gorge but on my top ten list of favorite routes here.This would be a four star route if it were not for a bit of loose rock. PG rating for some questionable rock. Nice to have the belayer off to the side. That being said I did not knock anything off but I did climb it cautiously. Also there is no fixed anchor above this climb. Extra hand size gear for the anchor or belay from Mad Cat anchor 15' right.

Location

This is the obvious splitter just left of Mad Cat

Protection

.5 C4-3 w/extras in .75 & 1. A few slots for bomber hand size hex or tricam

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
really fun route, solid jams throughout with many constrictions and occasional face holds and pockets on the sides. easier if you jam and stem vs. just jam. in the valley this would be 5.9 (thinking 2nd pitch of reeds). why the pg-13? this thing swallows solid pro anywhere along the entire crack. definitely gear up on .75 and 1" pro. Nov 4, 2017
This has seen a bit of traffic, found a fair amount of chalk, and is cleaning up a bit. Lead it again and it is so good. May 8, 2016