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FlexiBro (aka, Side)

V8-9 PG13, Boulder, 18 ft (5 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 10 votes
FA: Do I dare say....
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Bullet Hole Bou… > Bullet Hole Boulder

Description

Start with the jug of glory, right hand, left on mono pocket (low) mainly for balance. Work up with left hand either using the bumps or going straight for the decent hold just above the brim of the overhang, without chalk on it, you'll need to feel it out. The feet are sparse, but they are there. Think, "little toe pockets." Move left foot over to balance for the tiny, little crimp you'll need to grab with your right hand. This is crux 1. Pull up on crimp, moving right leg into that glory jug from the start, and static your right hand up into the only two finger pocket you get on the face. Now, desperately pull up on the two finger pocket, find a tiny spot for your left foot, palming with your left hand to balance your weight, attempt to match in that pocket with one finger from your left hand sharing the hold, (2nd crux) bump left foot up to better hold, lean HARD on that foot, balancing your weight, get flexible (FlexiBro) bring your right foot up and stand! You've made it to the last 10 feet of questionable sandstone, top that B out.
(Jebus, that was one long description....)

Location

This is the finished "Side" route on the east side of the Bullethole Boulder.

Protection

Pads and a spotter. There is a very precarious, big rock under you the entire time. PAD that thing up, you will land on it. We moved the smaller go-cart but couldn't move the car.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Get FlexiBro. C'mon, it's pretty good!
[Hide Photo] Get FlexiBro. C'mon, it's pretty good!
Top that B out.
[Hide Photo] Top that B out.
Two finger pocket.
[Hide Photo] Two finger pocket.
Little crimp of doom... crux 1.
[Hide Photo] Little crimp of doom... crux 1.
Decent hold above overhang brim.
[Hide Photo] Decent hold above overhang brim.
Start-ish.
[Hide Photo] Start-ish.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
  V6
[Hide Comment] Fun mantel problem! V6 from the sit on the crimps. Feb 22, 2020
Ryan Hinrichs
Grand Junction, CO
  V6
[Hide Comment] Fun problem! V8+ seems outrageous though, felt closer to V6ish. Mar 31, 2021