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Routes in Garden Cliffs

A Garden Called Peace S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Anaphylactic Shock T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blackberry Jam T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Castle Black T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Community S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Criss Cross Applesauce S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutting Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daring to Fly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Death of Koschei the Deathless, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fight Club (Round Two) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heirloom Project S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
John Henry's Hammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Littlest Birds, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
My Empire of Dirt (Closed Project) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Secret Garden S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nest S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ovulation Send-sation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rain Shadow S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scorpion Hitchhikers Toilet Bowl Odyssey, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Scorpion Revenge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seraphim Nachash, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slithering Skink (AKA Dirty Skank) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snug as a Snail S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stasis Chamber, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tombstone Project (Open Project) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Vine (Open Project), The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b M6-7
Wildlings S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Yggdrasil - Open Project S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 443 total · 14/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Mar 3, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

OPEN PROJECT.
Newly bolted, this line just got cleaned, and it's above my pay grade right now... Some really tough moves on this one. Should be a great route (if it can go now). Feel free to project on it. I've worked it, and it is HARD! I'm guessing somewhere in the hard 5.13 area. It is an open project.
Technical, powerful climbing on big moves and small holds on a vertical wall with almost no footholds.

Location

6th route to the left.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

anewton  
This route currently has a fixed line on it, unless it's for the corner route to the left.

Is it still an open project or has it been closed? Apr 4, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.13
It's Open. I haven't had the chance to pull the line down yet. Probably will do that on Sunday. Apr 5, 2016
anewton  
Right on. Thanks. Apr 5, 2016
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Broke a few holds off above the second bolt today. It will be way harder than it was already. Apr 18, 2016
anewton  
I'll bring the glue. Apr 18, 2016
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.13
Yea, I was actually planning to bring out some glue to reinforce some holds. but since the route is certainly above my grade for probably a couple more years, I'm going to leave that up others that are stronger and wish to project it. :) Apr 18, 2016
Would anyone mind if I glued some holds on this thing? Definitely needs some TLC to be worked. Aug 7, 2017
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.13
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.13
As long as you mean gluing on/reinforcing original holds then go for it... haha Aug 7, 2017
Yes of course. I wasn't suggesting adding artificial holds. Just trying to keep the whole thing from falling apart. Aug 12, 2017
Friends and I have been projecting this route. Broken/cleaned off a lot of holds, should be relatively choss free and stable to climb on, I would still highly recommend belayers wear a helmet. We put permadraws up on all but the first 2 bolts, so jump on it if you want. Feels 12b-ish up to the 4th bolt, then v8 boulder sequence. Probably 13b/c all together? Jul 5, 2018
HEADS UP: As of this weekend, the nut was about a half turn from coming completely off the 4th bolt on this line. I hand tightened it, and will bring a wrench next time I climb here, but not sure when that will be. Aug 20, 2018

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