PRINT: Rock Climb Low-hanging Fruit, Owens River Gorge

Low-hanging Fruit

5.10a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 52 votes
FA: Erik Wolfe/Morgan Nutting
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Lower Gorge > Pink Face

Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.

1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.

Description

From the big ledge that shares the start of "Wowie Zowie": Either climb straight up (avoiding the ledge to the right) for the 5.10 bit past the first three bolts, or scramble up and right through clean ledges and clip the third bolt for the 5.9 variation.

Either way, climb past steep edges and pockets on great rock, then finish with a balancy exit.

Location

Far right side of Pink Face - scramble up an easy groove to gain the start.

Protection

8 bolts, Mussy hooks

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo To Pink Wall

Half way up Low Hanging Fruit (right) and my friend is on Pink Panther (left).

Mike Arechiga on, Low-hanging fruit. 5.10a, fun new route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Maidy Vasquez
Bishop, CA

Fun climb on edges and pockets.

This climb originally started at the third bolt after climbing up the groove and that version was rated 5.9 Leaders can still climb it this way if they have trouble with the low crux of the direct start.

From the top of this climb it is very easy to swing over and clip a directional on the Wowie Zowie anchor if you would like to TR the 10aR climb and the fun 5.8 trad crack climb. Apr 6, 2016

James Barnett

This route feels more like 5.9 even with the direct start. Its a bit easier than Wowie Zowie. Just my thought. Jun 3, 2016

Ari G

5.10c

Some fun crimpy moves. I found this WAY harder than nearby Director's Cut 10a. Direct up the first few bolts felt 10c/d. Low crux before the first bolt with a potentially nasty fall off the ledge -- I felt much safer clipping it from the 5.9 variation before trying the direct start. Sep 5, 2016

old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA

5.9 PG13

Fun climbing on solid rock, but I second James' thought that this is easier than Wowie Zowie regardless of the start. I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating because I'm fairly certain that a fall on the first few bolts means landing in the corner. Dec 28, 2016

MisterE Wolfe
Grass Valley, CA

5.10a/b

"I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating..."

FYI, you can easily stem back onto the ledge if you have any trepidation climbing or clipping "on the face" anywhere during the first three bolts. Dec 30, 2016

old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA

5.9 PG13

"I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating..."

I'm not thinking about what you 'can' do, but rather what happens in a fall. There's a difference between stepping back and stemming across in a controlled manner vs. slipping and taking a fall (when trying to make the next clip for example). Jan 1, 2017

MisterE Wolfe
Grass Valley, CA

5.10a/b

I concede your point, Old5ten.

There is a ledge, yes. Our original intent was a 5.9 with an "PG" scramble to the transition to the face. The lower part seemed good as a lead option.

The sport route to the left also has ledge-fall potential.

People should be careful. Apr 15, 2017

BAd

5.10a/b

Folks should use a stick clip for this if they feel sketchy about the first clip. I would DEFINITELY stick clip the first bolt on Wowie to the left. Direct with no back stepping, this is solid 5.10, although we would not got c/d. Great climbing!

BAd Sep 8, 2017

phylp phylp
Upland

This definitely doesn't deserve a PG rating. It's obvious what the fall potential is and it's obvious that you have a choice if you think a fall is a possibility. I say this because I led this without having read these comments before hand - and I choose to do the safe 5.9 variation without knowing it would change the rating, but knew that it would make for a safer lead. Came down and said to my partner "the way I did it felt like 5.9, I probably avoided the crux, but now you can have the safe toprope and do the direct way". Oct 10, 2017

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

5.9

Fun, plentiful bolts and flow. May 3, 2018

MisterE Wolfe
Grass Valley, CA

5.10a/b

No way I am giving this rig a "5.9/.10c" split grade from the reviews - LOL! Thanks for all the feedback! Jan 7, 2019