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Routes in Pink Face

Fraggle Rock S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Leave No Trace T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Low-hanging Fruit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mile High Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Muppet Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Naked Gun S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Natural Lite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pee Wee's Playhouse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pink Panther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rapscallion S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sesame Street S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shell of A Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Toorete S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wowie Zowie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Erik Wolfe/Morgan Nutting
Page Views: 473 total, 22/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

From the big ledge that shares the start of "Wowie Zowie": Either climb straight up (avoiding the ledge to the right) for the 5.10 bit past the first three bolts, or scramble up and right through clean ledges and clip the third bolt for the 5.9 variation.

Either way, climb past steep edges and pockets on great rock, then finish with a balancy exit.

Location

Far right side of Pink Face - scramble up an easy groove to gain the start.

Protection

8 bolts, Mussy hooks

Photos

phylp
Upland
 
phylp   Upland
 
This definitely doesn't deserve a PG rating. It's obvious what the fall potential is and it's obvious that you have a choice if you think a fall is a possibility. I say this because I led this without having read these comments before hand - and I choose to do the safe 5.9 variation without knowing it would change the rating, but knew that it would make for a safer lead. Came down and said to my partner "the way I did it felt like 5.9, I probably avoided the crux, but now you can have the safe toprope and do the direct way". Oct 10, 2017
BAd
  5.10a/b
BAd  
  5.10a/b
Folks should use a stick clip for this if they feel sketchy about the first clip. I would DEFINITELY stick clip the first bolt on Wowie to the left. Direct with no back stepping, this is solid 5.10, although we would not got c/d. Great climbing!

BAd Sep 8, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
I concede your point, Old5ten.

There is a ledge, yes. Our original intent was a 5.9 with an "PG" scramble to the transition to the face. The lower part seemed good as a lead option.

The sport route to the left also has ledge-fall potential.

People should be careful. Apr 15, 2017
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 PG13
"I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating..."

I'm not thinking about what you 'can' do, but rather what happens in a fall. There's a difference between stepping back and stemming across in a controlled manner vs. slipping and taking a fall (when trying to make the next clip for example). Jan 1, 2017
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
"I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating..."

FYI, you can easily stem back onto the ledge if you have any trepidation climbing or clipping "on the face" anywhere during the first three bolts. Dec 30, 2016
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9 PG13
Fun climbing on solid rock, but I second James' thought that this is easier than Wowie Zowie regardless of the start. I'd also give this climb a PG13 rating because I'm fairly certain that a fall on the first few bolts means landing in the corner. Dec 28, 2016
Ari G
  5.10c
Ari G  
  5.10c
Some fun crimpy moves. I found this WAY harder than nearby Director's Cut 10a. Direct up the first few bolts felt 10c/d. Low crux before the first bolt with a potentially nasty fall off the ledge -- I felt much safer clipping it from the 5.9 variation before trying the direct start. Sep 5, 2016
James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
This route feels more like 5.9 even with the direct start. Its a bit easier than Wowie Zowie. Just my thought. Jun 3, 2016
Maidy
 
Maidy  
 
Fun climb on edges and pockets.

This climb originally started at the third bolt after climbing up the groove and that version was rated 5.9 Leaders can still climb it this way if they have trouble with the low crux of the direct start.

From the top of this climb it is very easy to swing over and clip a directional on the Wowie Zowie anchor if you would like to TR the 10aR climb and the fun 5.8 trad crack climb. Apr 6, 2016