[Hide Comment] A high quality addition to the Tsunami amphitheater. Although short, the movement and rock is very good! May 10, 2017

[Hide Comment] The initial first ascent beta made the route a few grades harder, proposed at 12c. Since it has seen more ascents, more holds have been chalked and discovered in a crux section making it more manageable. I haven't got on it since i put it up a few years ago till yesterday. I think 5.12a is probably a more fair grade. Mar 30, 2018

[Hide Comment] Sink in a knee bar and get pitted...so pitted. Sep 9, 2018

[Hide Comment] I'd love to see the 12a beta for this thing cause I couldn't find it. I did find a cool shouldery and body positiony way to do the crux but I feel like it would bout any 12a climber I know. Right kneepad was nice. I stick clipped the 2nd bolt (the one on the slab) to avoid cutting up the rope on the sharp edge. The 6th bolt is nice to have an extended draw to allow you to clip at the good stance. Ideally it would be moved down about a 15 inches as bolt 7 is only like two or three moves higher.

Great route and a super cool addition to this unique wall May 21, 2019

[Hide Comment] This is a really really good route. Definitely more on the 12a side, but I can see how the easy beta could be hard to find. Much less strength intensive than neighboring routes to the right. If the first crux feels shouldery and desperate you are definitely doing it wrong, keep searching there's a pretty casual way to do it. Jul 3, 2020

[Hide Comment] This is a really nice route. Of course, anytime I can sink a hand jam and knee bar simultaneously I'm probably having fun.

There is a potential hazard on this route, however, that may be worth mentioning. The third bolt - which protects the crux - is drilled approx. 2-3" from the edge of the arete. Being a fairly large (1/2" Powerbolt+) expansion bolt, this guy is putting a lot of outward force on a very small amount of rock (*). One should consider the possibility that this bolt could shear off the edge of the arete - especially after repeated falls or freeze-thaw cycles.

The location of this bolt protects the crux perfectly however, so I understand the reason for placing it there. On redpoint I back-cleaned the second bolt (shared with Rising Tides) as the rope line between the two was totally in the way of my hand jam + knee bar contortions. This left bolt #3 as the only thing preventing a huge ground fall at the crux, so I acknowledge that my concern may have been heightened.

That said, I've seen bolts fail (including breaking the rock) so I hope my caution is not unfounded. If someone ever wanted to address this particular issue, I would propose two possible solutions: First, putting another bolt in a couple feet directly below this one. Then one could clip that, clip the existing crux bolt, and reach back and unclip the second (Rising Tides) bolt - all from a great stance. This would keep the rope completely out of the way for the crux and provide a backup should worse come to worst. Second, consider swapping the crux bolt cleanly for a 1/2" glue-in; the combination of epoxy + lack of mechanical expansion would make the most of the current location. Doing both would keep the bolt where it is which is perfect for clipping/protecting the crux, keep the rope out of the way, and provide an added margin of safety (with another bolt a few feet lower).

(*) DeWalt/Powers recommends against placing these anchors within 2L (where L = the length of the bolt) of the edge of the medium or of another bolt due to the potential for them to weaken or break the medium. This isn't always practical in rock climbing applications, but it is worth keeping in mind. Oct 22, 2021