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Routes in Shipwreck Wall - East Face

Blue Light Special S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt From the Blue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish N' Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flab Happy TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight of the Patriot Scud Blaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Liquid Jade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Marooned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
More Sandy than Kevin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mothers Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple Aces S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Riptide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising Tides S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skipper's Little Buddy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoney Surfer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walking While Intoxicated S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Alan Collins
Page Views: 746 total, 34/month
Shared By: Alan Collins on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The Stoney Surfer features hard arete climbing (the first crux) followed by a powerful crux on good holds. The ending bit is probably in the low 5.11 range, but it can sustain a good pump. Although this is a new route, the rock quality is remarkable. The hard climbing has perfect rock with beautiful streaks running down it. The climbing after the cruxes is still good, but not as perfect as at the crux.

It shares the first two bolts with Rising Tides and then branches out left. Start of on some chossy rock that is surprisingly solid. Large blocks are held in place creating jugs that lead to the clipping stance for the 2nd bolt. Looks scarier than it really is! Don't be shy because of the intimidating start.

Traverse into the perfect rock out left and begin the first crux after clipping the 3rd bolt. The first crux is both powerful and delicate but good body positioning makes it doable. The rock on the arete passing the 3rd bolt is as good as any rock in the park! Get a decent rest and begin the 2nd crux passing the 4th bolt. The crux is outright powerful but at least features decent holds. After the cruxes, work your way up the last 3 bolts of 5.11- climbing.

Location

Left of Rising Tides and Tsunami at the top of the ShipWreck Gully. Starts of Rising Tides 2 bolt.

Protection

7 bolts plus anchors (anchors are not fixed with steel carabiners)

Photos

Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
 
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
 
A high quality addition to the Tsunami amphitheater. Although short, the movement and rock is very good! May 10, 2017