Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Page Views: 2,294 total · 43/month
Shared By: Blake M on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

With 3 sustained pitches, minimum munge, a double dose of thin hands magic and a unique Sedona summit this modern pleasure cruise will blow your hair back. Or the helicopters will. Either way, prepare to be blown away.

Pitch 1 | 5.11+?! - 60'

Follow rightward trending bolts to a rough warm-up crux, surmount it and continue to the end of the rainbow. 6 Sport Clips to a gear belay, .3s and Red C3.

Pitch 2 | 5.11+ - 115'

Plug, Chug and Thug up the steep corner to a wacky heroic hands bulge. 3D your way through it and emerge onto slabby terrain and more thin hands, remember your in Sedona and push your way to the Hotel Munge Vista belay. The bolt is for the protection of your protection. Two bolt belay.

Pitch 3 | 5.11 - 105'

Slab Mantel left off Munge Vista and traverse past bolts and through a sporty plastic crux. Skip up pods in the crack to thin hands boulevard. When the road ends, blast left to the security of the Body Jam. Gear belay #4 and #5.

Pitch 4 | 5.8b/c PG-15 - 70'

Sleeping bag shuffle up the low angle chimney. Uponst emerging, step left, walk past 2 sport clips and hump onto the ridge munge blocks. Two bolt belay.

Pitch 5 | 5.9c+ - 28.56'

Mantle model jugs while not factoring the anchor. Walk right to a bolt and boulder up left and right finally dancing to the ugly duckling summit blob (Burcham Inc© Approved). Possible to link with pitch 4 if you have tight shoes.

Decent

70m REQUIRED! or 2 36m ropes

Rap off the summit block to the west and walk the sidewalk to a station (Burcham Inc© Approved) on the tip. Rap 34.7652 (AKA TIE KNOTS) meters to a semi hidden station on Body Jam down and left. Make a second rap to the next ledge below. Then twirl to the ground and your packs.

CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.

Location

Hike from Sombart Ln trailhead 5 min to a 4 way intersection. Go straight and veer right on the lower slickrock bench. Follow trail along slick rock benches for 15 min. Exit left on last bench to a trail leading up and left. Follow this faint trail up to the drainage below the Self Loathing National Monument. Where the trail turns downhill, look for easy passage uphill, working right to slickrock slabs, and straight up to the climb. Starts on the left side of the West face.

Protection

1 - Red c3
Doubles .3 to #2
Extra .5-#1
Double Extra .75 (Optional)
1 - #3,#4,#5
7 Runners

Photos