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Routes in Self Loathing National Monument

Rotor Rampage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Page Views: 1,742 total, 83/month
Shared By: Blake M on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

With 3 sustained pitches, minimum munge, a double dose of thin hands magic and a unique Sedona summit this modern pleasure cruise will blow your hair back. Or the helicopters will. Either way, prepare to be blown away.


Pitch 1 | 5.11+?! - 60'

Follow rightward trending bolts to a rough warm-up crux, surmount it and continue to the end of the rainbow. 6 Sport Clips to a gear belay, .3s and Red C3.

Pitch 2 | 5.11+ - 115'

Plug, Chug and Thug up the steep corner to a wacky heroic hands bulge. 3D your way through it and emerge onto slabby terrain and more thin hands, remember your in Sedona and push your way to the Hotel Munge Vista belay. The bolt is for the protection of your protection. Two bolt belay.

Pitch 3 | 5.11 - 105'

Slab Mantel left off Munge Vista and traverse past bolts and through a sporty plastic crux. Skip up pods in the crack to thin hands boulevard. When the road ends, blast left to the security of the Body Jam. Gear belay #4 and #5.

Pitch 4 | 5.8b/c PG-15 - 70'

Sleeping bag shuffle up the low angle chimney. Uponst emerging, step left, walk past 2 sport clips and hump onto the ridge munge blocks. Two bolt belay.

Pitch 5 | 5.9c+ - 28.56'

Mantle model jugs while not factoring the anchor. Walk right to a bolt and boulder up left and right finally dancing to the ugly duckling summit blob (Burcham Inc© Approved). Possible to link with pitch 4 if you have tight shoes.


Decent

70m REQUIRED! or 2 36m ropes

Rap off the summit block to the west and walk the sidewalk to a station (Burcham Inc© Approved) on the tip. Rap 34.7652 (AKA TIE KNOTS) meters to a semi hidden station on Body Jam down and left. Make a second rap to the next ledge below. Then twirl to the ground and your packs.

CUZ CO© NEW ROUTE GUARANTEE - You will have fun or your money back, oh yeah, that's right, you didn't do anything, you're just climbing. Have Fun.

Location

Hike from Sombart Ln trailhead 5 min to a 4 way intersection. Go straight and veer right on the lower slickrock bench. Follow trail along slick rock benches for 15 min. Exit left on last bench to a trail leading up and left. Follow this faint trail up to the drainage below the Self Loathing National Monument. Where the trail turns downhill, look for easy passage uphill, working right to slickrock slabs, and straight up to the climb. Starts on the left side of the West face.

Protection

1 - Red c3
Doubles .3 to #2
Extra .5-#1
Double Extra .75 (Optional)
1 - #3,#4,#5
7 Runners
Blake M
 
Blake M  
 
Body Jam (5.11) is a Bloom/Cosentino route circa 1999 according to Castles In The Sand. The last two rap stations you use were existing on it but we did not find any anchors on the top of the sidewalk or summit. It's unclear to me if it went to the top. Castles In The Sand lists it as 2 pitches/300ft which doesn't align with the anchors on it at all....

Glad you enjoyed the route! Jan 2, 2017
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
 
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
 
Great line. P1, 2, and 3 felt consistent in difficulty but in different styles. Also, not sure if Body Jam Direct has been done, or if it is in Self Loathing National Monument's master plan, but it looks like a pleasantly wide more-moderate line up the tower. With the rap line as is, BJD even has anchors! Looks to be plug and play ready. Jan 1, 2017
Eva Christ  
 
Very cool route! Face part of pitch three seemed hardest to me. (short me?) Thanks for a sweet new Sedona route for thin hands lovers! Oct 3, 2016
Sweet looking line! Mar 7, 2016
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
I also refuse to start before noon. Mar 5, 2016
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
What a great route! Insta-classic for sure!

A few additions: P1&2 face west, 3&4 north, and only the 30' top out pitch faces south, so if your name is Trevor Bowman and you refuse to climb in the sun when the temp is above 45°F this route could be a good choice for when it's warm out provided you start before noon.

Pitches 1, 2, and 3 were all $$$$. I actually thought gaining the crack on P3 to be the hardest and most insecure part though.

Also, I blew by the belay at the top of P3 because I didn't think the #4 would fit (reasoning it might higher) and ended up linking 3 and 4 together. If you do this you can forgo bringing the #4 and #5 altogether (I also never placed the #3); sure, you'll have to run out the start of P4, but it's a secure 5.8 chimney and if you're climbing 11+ in Sedona you'll be just fine. Mar 5, 2016
Zach Harrison
  5.11+
Zach Harrison  
  5.11+
Awesome hero action. Rad views. Red Bull helicopter fly-by's. A whole piggy bank spent on chain. All features tested with crowbar and hammer for durability. Dueling money pitches. What else could you ask for in choss? Get your Self Loathing on! Mar 3, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Damn fun. Quality cracks, and all that other stuff. I checked into a single room at The Munge Vista, I'm certain it's comfy for two maybe three hours. Excellent balcony. Classic 5 star view of the desert.

I am a little disappointed in this site because I could only select 1 bomb instead of 4 or 5 on the quality scale above. This thing is da bombs! Mar 3, 2016