Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Bob Boyles, Mike Weber c.1975
Page Views: 1,361 total · 14/month
Shared By: Zach Weyn on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon, Face Canyon, Highway Face, Steep Wall, Far Side, and Nixon Head (updated 3/15/24) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the chimney to the right of Unknown Leon. There is nowhere good to place protection until you go above and stand on a small boulder wedged in the bottom of the chimney, which is about 15 ft up. There are a couple horizontal cracks after that, and after that there is a 20 ft blank section. I climbed facing away from the cliffs, and about 5 ft below the anchor was a pocket behind me that was deep enough to stuff a C3 into.

The chimney walls are well featured and offer very secure stances. Bring a solid mental game.

Protection Suggest change

BD C4 Camalots #1 - 0.75 and a couple tip size cams. Bring 2-3 slings to extend some placements. Chains to anchors at top.

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