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Routes in South Bank - The Cracks

All My Heroes Are Heroin Junkies T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I.V. Nightmare T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 157 total · 5/month
Shared By: Simon Beardsley on Mar 2, 2016
Admins: Frances Fierst

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Climbs okay, looks like butt. Crux is getting established in the crack; ~10ft of easy crack climbing leads to a large horizontal, and the route finishes straight up a short section of face climbing.


Start just right of the ominous protruding rebar and work your way into the obvious, left-most, left leaning crack. Follow this up to a large horizontal, then move straight up on face climbing. Trail access directly from the top of the climb; decent trees for top anchors.


Very well protected. Single set of cams to 3" is good. Optional 4" piece for the horizontal near the top.


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