Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: E. and L. Stefke, Feb. 27, 2016
Page Views: 569 total · 13/month
Shared By: old5ten on Mar 1, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are two possible starts on this route. Traverse diagonally right and slightly up from the start of 'Rewritten' or climb straight up on easy 5th class from below the start of 'Rewritten.' It is a good 20'+ to the first bolt.
At the first bolt (added after the FA) climb up on good holds, then step out left (around the corner) at the second bolt. Move up from there on easy terrain to a slab and slightly right to the 3rd bolt. Surmount the short headwall (5.7/5.8) just right of the 4th bolt. This is a bit height dependent (easier for med./taller climbers), the hidden bucket just right of the bolt helps, as do mantle skills. Continue up past another bolt and a horizontal crack (small/medium cam), on to a shallow corner (bolt) and the last moves (5.9) directly up a small trough past the final bolt. It is possible to completely avoid this crux move by going to an easy crack to the left (although this is less fun/aesthetic).

Location

Follow directions to Crack of Noon Buttress. The route is located on the right side of the cliff, just right of 'Rewritten' and climbs over a short headwall.

Protection

7 bolts, a handful pieces ranging from sm. nut to .75 Camalot.
70m rope, mussy anchors

Photos

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