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Routes in Crack of Noon Buttress

Come Around Sundown S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Crack of Noon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Em Ion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Everything is Karate S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
Heady Noon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High Noon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
OW - That Bites S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rewritten T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ripples Revisited T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Short but Stout S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stand Up and Deliver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
What Horn S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: E. and L. Stefke, Feb. 27, 2016
Page Views: 232 total, 11/month
Shared By: old5ten on Mar 1, 2016
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are two possible starts on this route. Traverse diagonally right and slightly up from the start of 'Rewritten' or climb straight up on easy 5th class from below the start of 'Rewritten.' It is a good 20'+ to the first bolt.
At the first bolt (added after the FA) climb up on good holds, then step out left (around the corner) at the second bolt. Move up from there on easy terrain to a slab and slightly right to the 3rd bolt. Surmount the short headwall (5.7/5.8) just right of the 4th bolt. This is a bit height dependent (easier for med./taller climbers), the hidden bucket just right of the bolt helps, as do mantle skills. Continue up past another bolt and a horizontal crack (small/medium cam), on to a shallow corner (bolt) and the last moves (5.9) directly up a small trough past the final bolt. It is possible to completely avoid this crux move by going to an easy crack to the left.

Location

Follow directions to Crack of Noon Buttress. The route is located on the right side of the cliff, just right of 'Rewritten' and climbs over a short headwall.

Protection

7 bolts, a handful pieces ranging from sm. nut to .75 Camalot.
70m rope, mussy anchors

Photos

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