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Routes in Ten Minute Spire

Original Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Times Up T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Burcham, Albert Newman
Page Views: 385 total, 18/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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6 Opinions

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Description

A clean, right-facing dihedral with a fist-OW crack leads to a pull over a blocky bulge into the upper chimney. This cool squeeze chimney leads up past 1 bolt to a ledge and anchors. Scramble up slabs to the summit and downclimb to rap off.

Location

Out of the notch on the north side.

Protection

(1X) 3,4,5 C4 Camalots, 1 bolt, chains. 1 60m rope.
Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.8+
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.8+
Yes, an excellent inner passage adventure. Fun start on beautiful rock, nice cruxy section of wide crack into chimney. Well protected with mentioned gear and the one bolt (not 2 as in Bloom/Wolfe guide). This and Times Up make a super fun romp on Ten Minute Spire. Superb rock on both routes. Oct 17, 2016
Stephen Dobbs
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Stephen Dobbs   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Second to what Derek said. All I'd like to add is be careful of some dubious flakes at the beginning of the route. When used, the flake gives a flex, and a nice hallow sound. Not cool. Also, right before the chimney, there is a small boulder of mudstone that also doesn't feel very secure. Tread lightly. However, I still highly recommend this route! Very memorable and the squeeze chimney offers a rather exciting traverse into exposure. Mar 30, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
An aesthetic route to a neat little summit. Pristine dihedral down low offers a cool sequence of layback moves. Pulling the bulge into the chimney is super exciting thanks to a few dubious overhanging blocks. Squeeze chimney is technically easy but it feels wild up there! Mar 29, 2016