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Routes in Screaming Besengi

East Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: G. Parker, L. Dexter, 1973.
Page Views: 123 total · 5/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Feb 29, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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The route could be broken up in a couple of different ways, but this setup worked well for us. Be sure to sling pro long on the chimney or rope drag will get problematic.

Pitch 1--A short approach pitch up blocky corner cracks about 25' left of the upper chimney. Traverse a good ledge atop the limestone band to the main system and belay from hand/finger gear. (5.8, 40')

Pitch 2--An awkward crack up a flare leads to a ledge and a wrestle around a saw-grass bush to access the base of the chimney. Work up this long chimney, which varies greatly and keeps you thinking throughout. Intermittent cracks afford decent, but spaced pro. The chimney ends atop a notch, below the final summit ridge. There isn't really any good gear here, but you may want to stop if rope-drag is too bad. Unprotected slabs lead up the ridge to a corner with blocky, soft rock (save a few finger/thin hand pieces). With the full length of a 70m, you can reach a mid-size pine tree to belay from. (5.9 PG13, 230')


The obvious chimney on the east face. Rap with two ropes off of a good chain anchor on the uphill (north) side.


(2X) .3-#3 (1X) #4, #5 C4 Camalots, lots of slings, two ropes. #5 Camalot is optional, not necessary.